If you're tired of cramming camping gear into your trunk, picking up a zj roof rack is probably the best move you can make for your Grand Cherokee. Let's be real for a second—the ZJ is a legendary platform. It's got that classic 90s boxy charm, it's surprisingly capable off-road, and it's comfortable enough for a long highway haul. But it's not exactly a massive vehicle by modern standards. Once you get a couple of buddies and a cooler in there, you're basically out of room. That's where the roof rack comes in to save your sanity.
Adding some overhead storage isn't just about utility, though. There's something about a ZJ with a solid rack on top that just looks right. It completes that "overland" or "trail-ready" aesthetic that most of us are going for. However, before you go out and bolt the first thing you find to your roof, there are a few things we should probably talk about.
Why Your ZJ Needs More Than Just Factory Rails
Most ZJs came from the factory with those thin little slats and crossbars. They're fine if you're carrying a pair of skis or maybe a light suitcase, but they aren't exactly built for the long haul. If you've ever seen those factory crossbars flex under a bit of weight, you know what I'm talking about. They're plastic-heavy and, at this point, probably twenty-five to thirty years old. Sun damage is real, and the last thing you want is for a crossbar to snap while you're doing 70 down the interstate.
Upgrading to a dedicated zj roof rack gives you a much sturdier foundation. Whether you're looking to mount a full-size spare tire, some recovery boards, or a rooftop tent, you need something that actually ties into the structure of the vehicle. You've got two main ways to do this: mounting to the existing factory tracks or using the rain gutters.
Gutter Mounts vs. Track Mounts
This is one of the biggest debates when it comes to old Jeep ZJs. The rain gutters on these Jeeps are surprisingly strong. They run the length of the roofline and provide a solid pinch point for rack towers. A lot of people prefer gutter mounts because they spread the weight across a larger surface area and don't rely on the aging factory track hardware.
On the other hand, track-mounted racks use the sliders already built into your roof. If your factory tracks are still in good shape, this can be a much cleaner look. It keeps the rack lower to the roofline, which helps with aerodynamics—though, let's be honest, we're driving a brick, so aerodynamics are already a lost cause. The main thing is to make sure your hardware is tight. Old Jeeps love to vibrate things loose, so check those bolts every few months.
Choosing Your Style: Baskets vs. Platforms
Once you've decided how you're going to attach the thing, you have to figure out what kind of rack you actually want. This usually comes down to two main styles: the classic basket or the modern flat platform.
The Reliable Roof Basket
Baskets are the go-to for a reason. They've got high sides, which makes it really easy to throw bags, coolers, or a spare tire up there and strap them down without worrying about things sliding off the side. They give off a very traditional "explorer" vibe. The downside? They're noisy. Because of the tubing and the height, you're going to hear a lot more wind whistling through the cabin. If you do a lot of highway driving, a wind fairing is a must-have for a basket.
The Low-Profile Platform
Flat platforms have become huge in the off-road community lately. They're basically just a flat deck made of aluminum or steel slats. They look incredibly sleek and help keep the overall height of the Jeep down, which is a big deal if you still need to park in a garage. Platforms are also way more versatile for mounting specific gear like awnings or rooftop tents because they have integrated T-slots. The catch is that they're usually more expensive than a basic basket.
Dealing with the Weight
Here is where I have to be a bit of a buzzkill. Just because you have a heavy-duty zj roof rack doesn't mean you should turn your Jeep into a two-story house. The center of gravity on a Grand Cherokee is already pretty high. When you start tossing a 70-pound tire and a 150-pound tent up there, you're going to feel it in the corners.
If you're doing serious off-roading, that extra weight up high makes the Jeep feel "tippy" on off-camber trails. It's always a good idea to keep the heaviest items inside the vehicle, as low as possible, and use the roof rack for the lighter, bulkier stuff like sleeping bags, tents, and camp chairs.
The MPG and Wind Noise Factor
Let's talk about the elephant in the room: fuel economy. The ZJ isn't exactly a Prius. Whether you have the 4.0L straight-six or the 5.2L V8, you're probably getting somewhere in the mid-teens for gas mileage. When you add a zj roof rack, you're going to take a hit. Expect to lose about 1 to 2 MPG depending on how much gear you leave up there full-time.
Then there's the noise. A roof rack is basically a giant flute sitting on top of your car. At 65 mph, it can get pretty loud. Most high-quality racks come with a wind deflector (a fairing) that sits at the front to push air over the rack rather than through it. If the rack you're looking at doesn't have one, you might want to look into DIYing something or buying a universal fairing. Your ears will thank you on those five-hour drives to the trailhead.
Material Choice: Steel or Aluminum?
You'll generally find racks made of either powder-coated steel or aluminum. Both have their pros and cons.
Steel is usually cheaper and easier to repair. if you bash it against a tree branch on a tight trail, you can usually just bend it back or weld it if it cracks. The problem with steel is rust. Especially on an older Jeep that might already be fighting the "rust monster," a steel rack will eventually start to flake and bleed rust onto your roof if the powder coating gets scratched.
Aluminum is the premium choice. It's significantly lighter, which helps with that center-of-gravity issue we talked about, and it won't rust. It's more expensive, but if you live in the rust belt or near the ocean, it's worth the extra cash just to avoid the headache of repainting the rack every two years.
Installation Tips for the DIY Crowd
Installing a zj roof rack isn't usually a complicated job, but it's much easier with a friend. These things are bulky and awkward. Trying to hoist a 50-pound rack onto the roof of a lifted Jeep by yourself is a great way to scratch your paint or break a window.
Before you start, clean your roof thoroughly. Once the rack is on, you probably won't be washing under there very often. If you're using the factory tracks, take a second to inspect the bolts. If they look rusty, hit them with some penetrating oil a day before you plan to do the install. The last thing you want is to snap a bolt head off inside the roof nut-cert.
Wrapping it Up
At the end of the day, a zj roof rack is one of those upgrades that truly changes how you use your Jeep. It turns a cramped daily driver into a legit adventure machine. Whether you're hauling a kayak to the lake or heading out for a week-long trek in the desert, having that extra storage space is a game changer.
Just remember to keep an eye on your total weight, check your bolts every now and then, and maybe invest in a good set of bungee cords or ratcheting straps. Once you get it dialed in, you'll wonder how you ever managed to fit all your gear inside the cabin. The ZJ might be an "old" Jeep, but with the right setup, it can still hold its own against anything else on the trail.